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Fixed blade/mechanical broad heads and arrow recommendations

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I recently bought a used hickory creek magnum 24, which is 24' from axle to axle with 70lb draw and 80% let off, got a really sweet deal on it, what I'm looking for is recommendations for type or brand of arrows to use and whether or not fixed blade or mechanical broad heads and what's the pros and cons to each.

Jeff
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Take them or leave them. Here is my humble input.

First don't shoot the bow at 70 pounds. Drop it ot 63 or less. Shooting at higher poundages seems to cause lots of shoulder problems after years of shooting.

Both mechanical and fixed broadheads work. Some like fixed others want mechanicals.

I like both and don't lose sleep over which I shoot.

I shoot mechanical broadheads for the simple reason is that the ones I shoot fly just like a field tip. No need to worry about that.

Those that like fixed will argue that if tuned properly that fixed will fly true as well.

I prefer to not worry if my bow has drifted slightly out of 'tune'. Every shot stretchs and ages your string. I just don't want to have that added to my checklist and worry list.

I use Vortex. Have for years. Is there a better broadhead out there? Probably. Why haven't I changed? If it isn't broke, then don't fix it. Vortex hasn't failed me yet. Until then I will stick with them.

The most recent fixed I have tried was the Atom. Which isn't a mechanical. I shot one deer with it and it was from a steep angle and the deer was moving more away than broadside. Found the deer in short order. Ran about 40 yards max. Deer was out of sight after 10 yards. Good blood trail despite the fact that they arrow struck the legbone on the opposite side. This prevented the arrow from exiting the deer.

Hope this helps.
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I shot thunderheads and liked them jjust fine but like Mike said, I just don't want to worry about flight disparity from field tip to broad head. I then went to 3 blade Rage then 2 blade Rage. With the Rage I didn't like how torn up the things got every time I shot a deer and I just didn't get good pass thru for whatever reason with either one. I have since switched to Shwacker and so far have only killed 2 with it but I like it better so far. Having said all that, if I knew for sure I had perfect flight and tuning I would always shoot fixed blade, but that is a big IF.
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Back in the 1986 era into the early 1990’s, summertime 3d shooting was very popular here in La. Many people had overdraws and short arrows in an effort to flatten trajectory and lessen the need to be able to judge yardage. However, the bows were grossly out of tune with those rigs. What happened was, in October these folks wanted to go hunting. They screwed in one of the popular heads of that era, such as the Thunderhead, and they suddenly discovered that they had severe flight problems.

It was already almost October and they needed a quik fix. Rather than take the overdraw off and throw it in the garbage can, and the short arrows, they went to a band aid approach, and screwed in a mech head. That was the era where the popular phrase “ Fly like a field point “ was born. And it stuck around. However, the bows were still grossly out of tune, and were noisy and destroying themselves. The energy had no where to go. It usually is absorbed by the proper arrow, but these short , too lite arrows would not absorb it, so everything rattled. THIS is where the Sims Vibration rubber got popular. Another Band Aid. See, it never ends.

Had these individuals gotton rid of the overdraw, the out of tune short arrows, and used proper spine arrows with steerable fletching, such as 4 inch or 5 inch, one of the great fixed heads would have flown correctly and the bow would be quiet & in tune.

It is not too much different today. I think the need to belong peer pressure plays a big part. A lot of people want to use what the group is using, even though it may be against tune physics. I would ask myself, am I rigging my bow for correct tune or am I following the popular band wagon ?

I would use a good fixed head, and keep it very sharp. See my Broadhead Sharpening thread on this board. Make sure you have correct arrows, I would stay in the high 7’s or into the 8’s as far as arrow weight grains per pound of draw weight. I would use at least a 4 inch vane or feather to steer. I would offset vanes or spiral feathers. Never mind the popular fad of 2 inch. Remember the above story. Don’t worry about losing FPS. So what.

Get it tuned right with a good reliable fixed head, kept sharp, then move on with your time. Scout, glass ag fields, get your woods time in instead of at the pro shop.
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It's a popular topic,the fixed vs.mech broadheads. There are great products of both models out there. Lamplighter has made some deadon points, of which I agree with.
As with anything else, pros and cons abound with either model head.

Best advice I've seen , is to get assistance with your rig, proper weighted and spined arrow/head combinations.Usually your dealer or local shop can get you started, depending on their expertise.Shoot often and become confident in what ever you shoot.
I am sure these guys can guide you in the right direction for a shop.

After guiding a fellow on a New Mexico Quality Area bull elk hunt a few years ago, I decided I would not take anyone with mechanical heads again.I brought in a bull that was huge and hot. I had scouted that bull on and off for 4 weeks prior to the hunter coming in from out of state. I had the hunter set up perfect as it gets on this one.The bull ended up seeing movement from the hunter in front and lower of me at 50 yards, and turned to leave. My hunter released on a quartering away shot, easy 38-40 yard shot. The bull had turned away and stopped looking over his back at the movement for a second. As I called to stop the bull I saw the release, the arrow in flight, and a near perfect placement shot on the bull. I then saw the arrow kick out as the mechanical blades opened on impact.The bull suffered a slight flesh wound only.I gave up on the bull after a couple hours, he had stopped bleeding and I obsevered him cross onto private land with his cows.
My buddy took that Bull 2 weeks later near the same area, the bull green scored in the 390's. He was a nice one. I know for near fact if a fixed broadhead was used, we'd toted that monster out for a happy hunter.

All personal preferences. Good luck !
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I use fixed blades. Wasp SST's fly exactly like my field tips. I can shoot tight groups shooting both the same. Like lamp said, keep em sharp. Dont' mess with them after they're sharpened. As Mike said, I am also not an advocate for big poundage. My bow is set at 58#. I can draw straight back slowly, upside down,sitting down,backward,on one foot, mouth open, even after I've been sitting in a tree at 15 degrees for hours.
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I do the same thing white boots,, I used to tell people if they cannot pull their bow back slow and easy, sitting on the tailgate with legs crossed, they pulling too much poundage, especially for elk where you call them directly into you. The elk are very hesitant and looking for the ‘elk’ talking to them, any movement they detect, they haul the mail usually.

I shoot an ancient Matthews Z-Max, one of the first ones that hit the market, maybe a 1996 era bow. I had it shooting in the 320’s at 70lbs very consistent back in 96, but ended up dropping to 60lbs and still in high 280’s, but far more forgiving and super easy to pull and hold.

Before going to muzzys I really liked the 100g WASP SST's too. I just could not find them out west as easy as muzzies.

People get hung up on the speed thing as lamplighter mentioned, somehow them old native Indians took their share of critters with old slow long bows and rock points………. :)
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Yeah I think FPS is more a marketing strategy. Not that it doesn't mean anything. It isnt as important as the marketing guys would have you beleive.
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   jls
I use to use fixed blades till i went to overdraw I shoot low poundage bow nothing fancy 47 lbs max I use us 2018 arrows b4 overdraw they were good but wanted lil more speed w/o sacrificing pullin ya Balls off b4 the shot, So over i drop to 1816 size arrow mechanical blade. Best (2) I've used Vortec 125&Rocket Aerohead Wolverine Mech 57 grain have killed many w/both
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Both type broadheads will kill game. The problem I have had with mechanicals is the size of the entrance wound. Usually it is the size of a field point. The exit, if there is one, is usually huge, and the internal damage is equally huge. If we lived in open country where you could see 150 yds or so, it wouldn't matter. But in the Louisiana thick brush, and swamp, you need a quick and reliable blood trail to follow. For me this has come to mean Slick Tricks. I use the Grizz Trick 2's which are slightly wider than standard Slick Tricks. I shoot 56# and 550gr arrows. If you shoot less poundage or especially, lighter arrows, I would go with the standard Slick Tricks. Muzzy also makes a very similar broadhead, that I hear is just as good, and maybe even slightly tougher.

I used to shoot Simmons Landsharks that were 160gr 4 blade heads that you had to sharpen yourself. They worked fine with my 65# old PSE and 650gr arrow plus the 160gr head. But the newer, faster bows are hard to tune for such a beast of a broadhead.

I then tried several mechanicals and they all killed deer quickly, but blood trails were sparce. Had to use a dog to find several.

Get Easton tuning guide from their site and do broadhead tuning and ST's or Muzzys will fly true for you.
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Also, use a lighted nock, I like the Nocturnal. Often the last 100yds of a trail is sparse, but with the lighted nock, you can see the light and save time. I shot one deer with a mechanical first weekend in a drought, at a waterhole. Sandy soil and 5 deer running in different directions. Never found a drop of blood that I could see. After dark I went to get a better flashlight, and when I came back I could see the nock 130yds away. Blood trail started 20 yds from the deer.
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